南歐西班牙,西‧葡,西‧葡‧摩

西班牙.塞維亞

巨匠編輯群
2021·08·02
作者·巨匠編輯群(Iris)

烈性女子的萬千面貌

在尚未踏上塞維亞Sevilla之前,我已經聽過許多關於它的故事。不過,每當我想起這座城市,首先浮現腦海的是《卡門》(Carmen),大概是因為這位為追求愛情不惜一切的吉普賽女子,她魅惑眾生的風情、鮮明出挑的個性,總和我心中的塞維亞形象不謀而合。


【圖說】塞維亞大教堂的吉拉達塔,是塞維亞當地最知名的地標。

獨門生意帶來璀璨歲月

《卡門》的故事背景設定在19世紀,這位菸廠女工的工作地點--皇家菸廠(Real Fábrica de Tabacos de Sevilla)是歐洲首座菸廠,因為是門特許生意,賺進大筆錢財,甚至為保護資產設立衛隊,也才有了卡門和下士荷西(José)之間的感情糾葛。

因壟斷事業致富,這在塞維亞可不是頭一遭,歸功於哥倫布(Cristóbal Colón)發現新大陸,以「貿易之家」(Casa de Contratación)成為所有新世界物品分送西班牙、甚至歐洲各地唯一轉運站的塞維亞,在16世紀才可真正稱作它的黃金時期。當時湧入的滾滾財源,將這座城市的門面妝點的耀眼奪目,據說,瓜達基維河(Guadalquivir)畔的黃金塔(Torre del Oro)外牆一度鋪上黃金,以安達魯西亞陽光燦爛的程度來說,我想天氣晴朗的日子裡,大概路過的人都要睜不開眼了!

     
【圖說】
() 哥倫布靈柩前方的左側卡斯提亞王國雕像,手持象徵航海的船槳,右側萊昂王國雕像,則高舉天主教的十字架。
 () 大教堂描繪贊助哥倫布航海之旅的伊莎貝拉女王和斐迪南國王的彩繪玻璃

大教堂的華麗變身

最能展現塞維亞風情的地方是老城區,狹窄蜿蜒的巷弄不規則延伸,串連起一座座小廣場,兩旁古老的白色房舍緊挨著餐廳、商店和博物館……每條街道看似相同卻不盡然,在這座迷宮裡迷路是家常便飯,隨意走逛則是拜訪它最迷人的方式,只要你能認得塞維亞大教堂(Catedral de Santa María de la Sede)!

無論從哪個角落,大教堂都以直指天際的鐘樓吉拉達塔為路人指引迷津。昔日摩爾人的清真寺歷經百年重建後,成為全世界最大的哥德式教堂,保留下來的伊斯蘭建築元素中,連接著水道和噴泉的橘園是我最喜歡的角落,每逢春季開花時節,庭園裡的綠色枝枒滿是白花,淡淡的橘子香氣隨風吹撫而來。

大教堂內部金碧輝煌的裝飾同樣令人驚艷,主祭壇描繪耶穌生平的祭屏雕刻,就像一本大大敞開的金色立體書,上百位人物排排站,繁複、精緻的讓人幾乎無法聚焦。大教堂內收藏有一截哥倫布的手指,一生流離的航海家生平未能享受任何榮華富貴,死後終於獲得了他應得的敬重,看著四大王國擬人雕像神情肅穆的抬起精美的靈柩,總讓我為他感覺幾分唏噓……

     
【圖說】
() 綠意盎然的橘園是大教堂中保留昔日清真寺建築結構的部分
() 繁複的雕刻與華麗的壁畫是塞維亞大教堂的亮點

>點我看西班牙旅遊專區

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